We have seen an increase in overseas customers requesting a Shikoku 88 pilgrimage scroll mounting services after the article about a Swiss customer was posted.

 

For tourists heading towards Ōsaka and Tōkyō after their pilgrimage, our Kobe-based company is easily accessible, and it seems they come to us because we offer consultations for scroll mounting in English and overseas shipping.

 

Today, we would like to tell you a story of a customer we met around the end of September 2023.

We received an inquiry about a Shikoku 88 pilgrimage scroll mounting from Michael-san, an Australian man who was on the pilgrimage right then.

He said he would be completing his pilgrimage shortly and would visit us to discuss scroll mounting.

True to his word, he showed up about two weeks after receiving the e-mail.

 

Michael-san Visiting Our Store

Yuuichi, who had been corresponding to Michael-san via e-mail, was away on a business trip, so I, Tomoko, had the pleasure of assisting him.

There was prior information that Michael-san had been on the pilgrimage at an astonishing speed.

That made me guess he was a similar age to me. (I am in my early 40s.) So, I was surprised upon meeting him in person.

He even asked me, “How old do you think I am?” and my answer was about twenty years younger than his actual age as he appeared remarkably youthful and energetic.

Michael-san had clear preferences and a budget, so he decided on No. 3 Mukai-houou (Facing Phoenix) from the catalog of Buddhist mounting style.

Click the below link for more information on the Shi-no-sou style (Buddhist style) :

 

The Mukai-houou is a simplified version of the Buddhist style. Michael-san liked the Phoenix pattern on the luster green fabric color but decided to upgrade it to the full Buddhist mounting style with an optional choice.

While having a meeting, I learned that Michae-san is originally from Australia and currently resides in Mozambique, southern Africa.

He mentioned that this is his second Shikoku 88 pilgrimage since 2009.

Remarkably, during his first pilgrimage in 2009, he completed it on foot! So-called Aruki-Henro.

At our company, which handles many stamp scroll orders, it’s quite rare to have customers who have completed the pilgrimage on foot.

It seems that walking pilgrimages are mostly undertaken by international visitors.

Our meeting turned into a delightful discussion, featuring the beauty of Shikoku’s nature, the unexpectedly steep terrain making the journey challenging, and anecdotes of encounters with locals along the way. I never knew Shikoku was so mountainous! It was a fascinating insight into the pilgrimage.

I would like to share the notes on this pilgrimage received from Michael-san.

I am an Australian, resident in Mozambique. I have worked on international development for many years, particularly in Africa, South Asia, Latin America and the Pacific.
I have undertaken the Shikoku 88 temple pilgrimage twice. First in autumn 2009, only by walking. And in fall 2023 by walking about 630 km and taking public transport to cover the nine longest stretches between temples, which range from 35 km to 83 km in length.
As a non-Buddhist, my principal motivation both times was to focus on personal reflection and prayer, and to learn more about Buddhism and Japanese culture. My Henro no akari in 2009 was undertaken during a period professional change and family illness, and helped me gain perspective on both accounts.
My second henro in 2023 had similar professional and personal goals, but I also wanted to deepen my appreciation of Kukai and Buddhism, and to enjoy again the sections of the pilgrimage that minimize road walking. I started and ended the pilgrimage at Temple 1, and following the walk visited Okunoin in Koyasan and To-ji in Kyoto.
Some changes between 2009 and 2023 that I observed:
· introduction in rural and peri-urban areas of solar energy generation systems that are linked to the power grid;
· on-going abandonment of houses in some rural areas, the closure of small retail commercial activities and an increase in larger stores and malls, and the expansion of high value housing, especially around mid-size and larger urban areas; and
· More English language guides, websites and apps concerning the pilgrimage route, though navigation is still difficult in places!

What has not changed is the beauty and calm of the temples, and the courtesy and interest of the people I met throughout the pilgrimage.

 

We’ve Got Problems.

Missing Stamps on the Scroll

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1. Stamp from Mt. Koya (Koya-san)

Observing closely at Michael-san’s stamp scroll, I noticed there was not the stamp from Mt. Kōya.

I explained that it is customary to visit Mt. Kōya, pay respects to Kūkai, and receive a stamp there as the final stop after completing the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage.

Michael-san promptly said he would be off to Mt. Kōya the next day and return to our shop right after he got it.

Even though he had been staying in Namba Ōsaka, which is conveniently accessible to Mt. Kōya, completing a day trip from Kōya-san to Kōbe is quite tiring.

Outstanding drive and determination!

Welcome back, Michael-san. With the stamp from Mt. Kōya.

 

2. Stamp from Temple 1 / Ryōzen-ji
A few days later, I noticed another missing stamp as shown in the below photo. Look at the part I am pointing at.

The paper mount underneath the silk stamp scroll states “Go back to the first temple you visited, get the Orei-Mairi stamp (the completion gratitude stamp) here, then visit Mt. Kōya.” (The details about Orei-Mairi will be mentioned later.)

Oh no, I have completely overlooked this! I need to contact Michael-san.

※From now on, the notation will be standardized as ‘Orei-Mairi stamp .’

 

What Should We Do with Missing Stamps?

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The following is the email exchange with Michael-san after his return to Mozambique.

This was the first time I had dealt with the missing stamps, and it was bewildering.

I informed Michael-san about the missing stamp and asked him if we should proceed with the mounting as is, or if we should take any measures.

Michael-san thought the scroll looked out of balance with the one stamp from Mt. Kōya only, which he had taken the trouble to visit.

He now understood another stamp notation and would prefer to include the Orei-Mairi stamp if possible.

At this point, there were two possible courses of action considered:

1. Ask Temple 1, Ryōzen-ji if they can arrange the Orei-Mairi stamp by mail.

2. Having Yuuichi (our managing director) visit Ryōzen-ji on Michael-san’s behalf to obtain the Orei-Mairi stamp.
Note: Additional fees apply for the above.

 

1. The mail service by Ryōzen-ji Temple

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Long story short, the answer was no.

When I asked Ryōzen-ji , the first temple of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, about arranging for the Orei-Mairi stamp to be mailed, they firmly told me they did not offer this service.

They explained that it goes against the spirit of pilgrimage, as they can’t verify if the pilgrimage was completed properly without checking the nōkyō-chō (pilgrimage stamp book).

I understood their position. Also, I was concerned because the staff gave inconsistent responses when I called several times.

Even if I received approval from one staff member to send the stamp scroll, the temple office would handle payment and mailing, which raised concerns about responsibility.

What if the stamp scroll got lost or misplaced? It seemed too risky, so I decided against it.

 

2. Pilgrimage by Proxy

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Fortunately, Ryōzen-ji is located near Awaji Island, which is relatively accessible from Kōbe (where we are), so Yuuichi decided to drive there.

Although our actual visit took place in December, we explained the whole situation and they provided us with the Orei-Mairi stamp dated October! It is written as “Reiwa 1st year, October, lucky day” under the right stamp.

It seems that leaving out the exact date is customary. When I reported to Michael-san that everything had gone smoothly, he was very happy to hear it. (Note: Before our visit, we confirmed with the temple and received approval for obtaining the stamp on behalf of our customer.)

 

Why Does This Trouble Occur? – Missing Stamps Explained

The main issue is that while the Orei-Mairi is fairly well-explained, there is no detailed English description about receiving the Orei-Mairi stamp.

Many international pilgrims have mentioned that they were unaware they were supposed to get an additional stamp at Temple 1, Ryōzen-ji , and then visit Kōya-san to receive another stamp.

Given the large number of international pilgrims, it is important to improve the explanations in multiple languages for items like the stamp book and stamp scroll.

Clear explanations about Orei-Mairi are essential to help pilgrims understand its significance and properly carry out the practice.

This will prevent confusion and ensure all pilgrims fully appreciate this custom.

Many of our internatilnal customers are very committed to following the pilgrimage rules, which is why this issue is particularly important.

Now, I have summarized the details about the Orei-Mairi, so please continue reading.

 

What is Orei-Mairi: The Gratitude Pilgrimage

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After completing the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, pilgrims perform Orei-Mairi (a gratitude pilgrimage) to express thanks for their safe journey and prayers.

Originally, Orei-Mairi involved visiting Kōya-san’s Oku-no-in, where it is believed that the founder, Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai), remains in eternal meditation.

While some pilgrims go directly from Temple 88 to Kōya-san, the current custom is to also re-visit Temple 1, Ryōzen-ji , to complete the pilgrimage circle.

At Ryōzen-ji , pilgrims receive a special stamp called “Mangan-no-Goshuin” which is simply known as the Orei-Mairi stamp.

If the pilgrimage started at a different temple, pilgrims should return there for Orei-Mairi.

To complete the Shikoku pilgrimage and Orei-Mairi, 90 stamps are needed: 88 from the temples and 2 for Orei-Mairi, one from Ryōzen-ji and one from Kōya-san. (The number of stamps may vary depending on the type of stamp book or scroll. Details will be provided later.)

While this tradition is part of Japan’s pilgrimage culture, many international pilgrims may not be aware of it, as most information is in Japanese.

The exact origins of Orei-Mairi are unclear, but it remains a meaningful custom, especially for walking pilgrims.

It likely evolved based on the relationship between pilgrims and local communities, rather than being strictly defined by the temples.

 

What to Do if You Forget the Orei-Mairi Stamp:

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1. Leave it blank. (Some people choose this option.)
2. Have our company perform the Orei-Mairi on your behalf. (We can assist with visits to specific temples depending on location and distance, with an additional fee.)
3. Get two stamps at Kōya-san. (This is a last resort if you missed the Orei-Mairi stamp during your pilgrimage in Shikoku. Japanese customers choose this often.)

While the “Orei-Mairi” is not a mandatory part of the pilgrimage, it is up to you to decide if it holds meaning for you. Some pilgrims complete their journey after visiting temples 1 through 88, while others may visit another temple that left a lasting impression.

Ultimately, whether or not to return to Temple 1 is a personal decision. Completing the pilgrimage at Kōya-san is a widely accepted way to mark the end, and at Kōya-san, you can receive stamps at various temples and halls, including the final stamp location, Oku-no-in and Kongō-Buji temple’s Golden Hall. This can be a good option if you forgot to receive the Orei-Mairi stamp in Shikoku.

The number of stamps required also depends on the type of pilgrimage scroll. Some versions require 89 stamps (88 from Shikoku + 1 from Kōya-san) instead of 90 stamps.

Be sure to check your scroll, especially if you plan to mount it into a hanging scroll, as the stamps can significantly affect the overall appearance due to the scroll’s format.

 

 

Michael-san’s Scroll Completed

It was a bit of a struggle before the mount process was started, but the scroll is now complete! Please take a look at the finished hanging scroll.

 

The beautiful vibrant green fabric looks stunning on the pilgrimage scroll!

Normally, when using this fabric for a hanging scroll, a simplified Buddhist mounting style is used. However, as an option, Michael-san chose the formal Buddhist mounting style, which has given it a more majestic atmosphere.

We sent the completed scroll to his brother in Australia as instructed.

Michael-san, who returned to his home in Australia in February 2024 and saw the actual piece, shared the following feedback with us.

You did magic with the scroll; it looks wonderful. It will give us many nice memories for years to come. Again, many thanks to you and Yuuichi for doing so much, especially solving the Temple 1 conundrum.

 

We are very happy that we were able to fulfill Michael-san’s wish of collecting all the stamps (this time, 90) and that he is pleased with the finished piece.

 

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Lately, we have been getting more requests to carry out proxy pilgrimages like this one.

Most pilgrimage scrolls are considered complete when both the Orei-Mairi stamp and the Kōya-san stamp are collected.

We can assist within our reachable areas, but please note that this will require an additional fee and usually take longer production due to the nature of performing the pilgrimage in between our work schedule.

Be sure not to forget to collect the last two stamps when you can!

We hope this article will be helpful for international Shikoku pilgrims.

Our company offers consultation for scroll mounting in English, and we can arrange shipping of the completed scroll to your home country.

After completing your pilgrimage scroll, please feel free to stop by our company.

Take good care and have a good journey.