Dainichi-ji: Ichinomiya Bettō-ji, transmitting the legacy of Shinbutsu Shūgō (the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism)

• Name: Ōgurizan Kezō-in
• Main Deity: Eleven-faced Kannon Bodhisattva (Jūichimen Kanzeon Bosatsu)
• Goeika (Pilgrimage Song):
• Calling it the Ichinomiya (First Shrine) of Awa Province,
• O, place your faith in this life and the next.

Access From Temple No. 12 (Shōsan-ji Temple):

• On Foot: Descend the mountain path from the temple gate, cross the Nabeiwa Bridge over the Zaigōchi River, and proceed onto Prefectural Road 43. Follow the road along the Zaigōchi River to the Kōyama community. From there, follow the road along the Akui River. The majority of the path is paved. Distance/Time: Approximately 22 km, 8 hours.
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• By Car: Roughly the same route as walking. Time: Approximately 1 hour.
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• Public Transport: Walk the same route as the walking path to the Kōyama-chō community. This is approximately 7 km, 2 hours. Transfer at the Kōyama Kōkō-mae (Kōyama High School) bus stop onto the Tokushima Bus Kōyama Line; the ride takes 40 minutes and you should alight at the Ichinomiya Fudasho-mae (Ichinomiya Temple Stop).

The Ancient Temple by the River

Upon entering the precincts built on the banks of the Akui River, one finds a monument shaped like hands pressed together in prayer (Gasshō). Within the palms, an image of Kannon is enshrined. This is the “Shiawase Kannon” (Happiness Kannon), combining the Japanese word for “palm lines” (Shiwa) and “happiness” (Shiawase). Pilgrims constantly visit to pray for happiness.

The temple grounds possess a calm and tranquil atmosphere, providing a sense of relief and making one realize they have descended from the remote mountain where Temple No. 12, Shōsan-ji, is located, back down to a village.

The Bettō-ji (Administering Temple) of Ichinomiya Shrine

Dainichi-ji Temple was originally the Bettō-ji (administering temple) of Ichinomiya Shrine.

A Bettō-ji was a temple located within the precincts of a large shrine, tasked with overseeing the shrine’s administration. Since the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism (Shinbutsu Kōgō) was common before the Edo period, temples co-located with shrines were not rare. Today, across the road, Ichinomiya Shrine stands, and its large grounds, mentioned in the goeika (pilgrimage hymn), stretch out.

The Principal Image is the Eleven-Faced Kannon

According to legend, Dainichi-ji Temple was founded after the Dainichi Nyorai (Mahavairocana) appeared during a Goma (fire ritual) performed by Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai), and this deity was made the principal image. However, the current Principal Image (Honzon) of the temple is the Eleven-faced Kannon Bodhisattva.

Based on the concept of Honji Suijaku (manifestation from original substance) during the era of Shinbutsu Shūgō, the gods enshrined in Shinto shrines were believed to be the temporary manifestations of Buddhas, who appeared in a divine form to save sentient beings. The deity of Ichinomiya Shrine was also originally considered a Buddha, and the Shrine served as Temple No. 12 on the pilgrimage route at the time.

However, after the Shinbutsu Bunri (Separation of Shinto and Buddhism) in the Meiji era, the Shrine ceased to be a pilgrimage temple, and Dainichi-ji became Temple No. 13. The Eleven-faced Kannon, which was the Honji-butsu (original Buddha) of Ichinomiya Shrine, became the new Principal Image of Dainichi-ji. Conversely, the Dainichi Nyorai, the temple’s original principal image, became the Waki-butsu (Attendant Buddha) of the Kannon Bodhisattva.

It is rare for the Dainichi Nyorai (a Nyorai, or fully enlightened being) to serve as an attendant to a Kannon Bodhisattva (a Bodhisattva, a being still pursuing enlightenment), as Nyorai is generally considered the higher-ranking entity.

DATA

Address: 263 Nishichō, Ichinomiyamachi, Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture
Phone: 088-644-0069
Access: 30 minutes by Tokushima Bus Kōyama Line from JR Tokushima Station, alighting at Ichinomiya Fudasho-mae.
Parking: Available (Free)
Lodging: Currently Closed

Your Pilgrimage, Your Art

Completing the Shikoku Pilgrimage is a once-in-a-lifetime journey—but what if you could preserve it in a form that lasts forever?

Many pilgrims collect red stamps and calligraphy from each temple on a special silk scroll called a nōkyōjiku.

This sacred record of your path can be transformed into a kakejiku—a traditional Japanese hanging scroll—not only preserving the memories, but turning them into a work of cultural and spiritual art.

It’s more than a souvenir—it’s a way to honor your journey, your prayers, and your growth.

To learn more about how a nōkyōjiku becomes a kakejiku, and what makes this transformation so meaningful, please refer the below link.