Shikoku Pilgrimage Temple: No. 12 Shōsan-ji

Contents
Shōsan-ji: A Mountain Temple Surrounded by 300-year-old Cedar Trees.
- Name: Maro-zan, Shōju-in Temple, Shōsan-ji
- Main Deity: Kokūzō Bosatsu
- Goeika (Pilgrimage Song):
- Even if I face the peril of the three evil paths after death,
- I devote myself at Shōsan-ji, pondering the world to come.
Access From Temple No. 11 (Fujii-dera):
- On Foot: This segment is the first major difficult pass for walking pilgrims. You must climb the mountain path behind Fujii-dera. Along the way, there are small temples like Zuizan Kyūkei-jo (Rest Area with a good view), Chōdoan, Ryūsui-an, and Ipponsugi-an (with a Kōbō Daishi statue). Except for passing through the Sōuchi settlement before Shōsan-ji, the route is almost entirely mountain paths. It is approx. 12.7km and takes 8 hours. As it is an all-day hike, it is recommended to stay overnight in the vicinity of Temple 11 or near Kamōjima-eki (Station) the day before.
- By Car: Head via Prefectural Rōad 31 through the Kamiyama settlement. Approx. 34km, 1 hour 20 minutes. From the parking lot to the Niō-mōn Gate is a flat 10-minute walk.
- Public Transport: Return to JR Kamōjima-eki, take the Tōkushima Line for 30 minutes, and alight at Tōkushima-eki. From Tōkushima-eki, use the transport methods listed in the data section to reach Shōsan-ji.
The Difficult Pass of the “Pilgrim’s Tumble” (Henro-korogashi)
Some temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage are intentionally placed in difficult, steep locations. This reflects the belief that walking the pilgrimage itself is a form of ascetic training. Such difficult spots are called “Henro-korogashi” (Pilgrim’s Tumble). Shōsan-ji, located near the 8th station of Mount Shōsan (elevation 938m), is the first “Henro-korogashi” temple encountered when starting the pilgrimage from Temple 1. The route from Temple 11 (Fujii-dera) is a series of repeated climbs and descents on steep mountain paths, covering a distance of about 13km. Even for a physically fit walker, it takes more than 6 hours.

Refreshing Cedar Groves
Dozens of cedar trees near the main gate and along the path soar towards the sky, overwhelming the viewer. Proceeding along the tree-lined path, you will find the Nōkyō-sho (temple office) on your left. Beyond the stone steps, the Hondō (Main Hall), Sanmen Daikōkuten-dō (Three-Faced Daikōkuten Hall), and the Shōrō (Belfry) stand. Mist often hangs over the grounds in the morning and evening, creating a profound and mysterious atmosphere.
The Sacred Place of Ascetic Practice Connected to Kōbō Daishi
This area is said to have been opened by En no Ozunu, the founder of Shugendō (mountain asceticism), and later Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) is said to have undertaken training here. When Kōbō Daishi visited this place, there was a giant demonic serpent on the mountain that showed him an illusion of the entire mountain being engulfed in flames. When the Daishi formed a mudra (hand seal) and prayed, the fiery illusion vanished. Then, Kokūzō Bosatsu appeared, and the giant serpent was sealed in a cave. The Daishi is said to have carved a statue of Sanmen Daikōkuten (Three-Faced Daikokuten) on the rock and founded the temple with Kokūzō Bosatsu as the Principal Image. The temple name “Shōzan” (Burning Mountain) comes from this legend.
DATA
Address: 318 Aza-jichū, Shimō-bun, Kamiyama-chō, Myōzai-gun, Tōkushima Prefecture
Phone: 088-677-0112
Access: From JR Tokushima-eki, take the Tokushima Bus Kamiyama Line for 1 hr 10 mins, alight at Kamiyama High School Mae, then walk for 2 hrs 30 mins. Alternately, alight at Yoriinaka (the stop before the high school); there is a taxi company (Yorii Kankō) near the town office, so taking a taxi is also possible.
Parking: Available (Charged as road maintenance fee)
Lodging: Available (Inquire in advance)
Your Pilgrimage, Your Art
Completing the Shikoku Pilgrimage is a once-in-a-lifetime journey—but what if you could preserve it in a form that lasts forever?
Many pilgrims collect red stamps and calligraphy from each temple on a special silk scroll called a nōkyōjiku.
This sacred record of your path can be transformed into a kakejiku—a traditional Japanese hanging scroll—not only preserving the memories, but turning them into a work of cultural and spiritual art.
It’s more than a souvenir—it’s a way to honor your journey, your prayers, and your growth.
To learn more about how a nōkyōjiku becomes a kakejiku, and what makes this transformation so meaningful, please refer the below link.

