Kumadani-ji: A temple complex rich in historic structures

• Name: Fumyōzan Shinkōin Kumadani-ji
• Main Deity: Senju Kannon Bosatsu (Thousand-Armed Kannon)
• Goeika (Pilgrimage Song):
• Gathering firewood and drawing water at Kumadani Temple,
• Even the hardships of ascetic practice are for the sake of the next life.

Access From Temple No. 7 (Juraku-ji):

• On Foot: Follow Prefectural Route 139 or the road running alongside the Tokushima Expressway. After passing under the expressway, the road leading to the temple gate becomes an unpaved farm path. Distance: approx. 4.2 km — about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
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• By Car: Use Prefectural Route 139 — about 4 km, 10 minutes.
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• Public Transport: None available for this section.

Overwhelmed by the Magnificent Niōmon Gate

Walking from Temple No. 7, Jūraku-ji, you will pass under the Tokushima Expressway and soon see the Niōmon Gate of Kumadani-ji.

The gate stands halfway up a gentle slope lined with cherry trees, which bloom beautifully in spring.

This two-storied Rōmon-style gate was built in 1687 and stands 13.2 meters high — a grand structure rare among the Shikoku temples, dating from the 17th century. Inside the gate, the bright red guardian statues of Kongō Rikishi make a powerful impression.

After passing through the Niōmon Gate, the approach crosses a road, leading to a parking area.
Pilgrims traveling by car often park there directly, but we recommend walking back to behold the majestic Niōmon Gate before entering the temple grounds for worship.

Beyond the parking area stands a large Tahōtō (multi-storied pagoda). Although among the largest of its kind, its well-balanced proportions create a dignified and graceful beauty. This pagoda was built in 1774.

Continuing further brings you to the Middle Gate, guarded by statues of Jikokuten and Tamonten.

Though simple in structure, this Two Deva Gate dates back to 1651 in the early Edo period. From there, stone steps lead up to the Main Hall (Hondō) in front, and the Bell Tower (Shōrō) on the left. Climbing further between them brings you to the Daishidō Hall, from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the Yoshino River and the Tokushima Plain below.

The Temple’s Origins: Linked to the Kumano Ascetic Tradition

According to temple legend, in the inner valley of Akagaya, Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) was engaged in ascetic training when the deity Kumano Gongen appeared and bestowed upon him an image of Kannon Bosatsu.
Using this Kannon image as the inner Buddha (tainai-butsu), the Daishi carved a statue of Senju Kannon and built a hall to enshrine it — the origin of this temple.

The temple’s connection to the Kumano faith is evident not only in its history but also in its name. The name “Kumadani-ji” itself, as well as the words of its sacred hymn, reflect this origin. The people mentioned in the verse — those who “gather firewood” and “draw water” — were likely Kumano ascetics engaged in spiritual practice.

Several temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage show similar ties to the Kumano tradition. During the syncretic period when Shinto and Buddhism coexisted, both the Shikoku temples and Kumano shrines were revered as sacred sites where deities and Buddhas resided together.

DATA

Address: 185 Maeda, Donari-chō, Awa City, Tokushima Prefecture
Phone: 088-695-2065
Access: About 15 minutes by car from JR Kamojima Station, or about a 2-hour walk from the station.
Parking: Available
Lodging: None

Your Pilgrimage, Your Art

Completing the Shikoku Pilgrimage is a once-in-a-lifetime journey—but what if you could preserve it in a form that lasts forever?

Many pilgrims collect red stamps and calligraphy from each temple on a special silk scroll called a nōkyōjiku.

This sacred record of your path can be transformed into a kakejiku—a traditional Japanese hanging scroll—not only preserving the memories, but turning them into a work of cultural and spiritual art.

It’s more than a souvenir—it’s a way to honor your journey, your prayers, and your growth.

To learn more about how a nōkyōjiku becomes a kakejiku, and what makes this transformation so meaningful, please refer the below link.